Why didn’t he stop?
Posted on | November 17, 2008 | No Comments
In the early 1980’s I worked on a framing crew. My boss was a descendant of Ahab, or so I believed then. But, I do remember him saying his mother’s maiden name was Bligh. We worked through all kinds of weather, except lightening storms. If the lightening was just a flash we kept working, if we could see a distinct bolt and smell ozone, then it was, “Be careful you don’t get struck.” In conditions like that, up to your boot laces in collecting water, a tool belt full of metal tools, and carrying a steel jacketed nail gun while being the tallest point in the immediate vicinity, it’s kind of hard not to feel like a lightning rod. If my boss wasn’t right out there with us, I’d of probably put my hammer in a place where he could use it as an intestinal back-scratcher, and the visible handle would earn him the nickname of beaver or some such creature. But, he was out there with us, Taunting Mother Nature and keeping the bar man from pouring rounds.
We had finished laying out a stud wall, and were nailing the sheathing in place before standing the wall when the whole crew heard a yell. It was an angry sounding scream, and in the middle of the horizontal wall was Phil. Phil was pretty new to construction and was rushing to finish so we could leave for the day when he slipped on the wet plywood and shot two nails through his boot, through his foot, nailing him to the sheathing. He didn’t mean to shoot the second nail through his foot either.
I was the first person to get to him, and I positioned him so there was less pressure on his foot. I said, “Jesus, that had to hurt.” And at that moment I didn’t see the irony. Phil was very religious. He was pious. He glared at me. He was as devout a man who happened to drink like mad and cheat on his wife could be. I knew part of him wanted to lecture me about using the Lords name, but I could tell he was in a world of pain. His face was red as hell, foamy clots of spit were forming in the corners of his mouth, and I knew then what he would look like if he ever caught rabies.
My boss Brian walked over to where we were. “Get me the sawzall,” He said it calmly. I didn’t know he had a calm voice until that moment. A few seconds later one of the guys brought over the sawzall. Those of you who don’t know what a sawzall is, it’s a reciprocating saw and the blade moves in and out like an electric kitchen knife, and it’s about as gentle as a jackhammer. At first I thought Brian was going to cut Phil’s foot off. Because, where Phil happened to connect himself to the structure, there was no plan to put a window there. “This might hurt a bit.” Brian said as he slipped the blade of the saw between the plywood and Phil’s boot sole. Generally, when someone says “this might hurt,” don’t believe them. It will hurt. It might just be one of the most excruciating experiences of your entire life, would be nearer to the truth.
Brian started the saw. Phil looked like he’d just been struck by lightning. He stood up right quick. If he wasn’t nailed to the wall, I would guess he would have jumped a good six or seven feet in the air. And as he stood, his free foot kicked. It kicked hard. Brian probably still has a funny Jack O’ Lantern smile to this day unless he’s since seen a good dentist. Phil, whose behind-his-back nickname was In God We Trust, and we would refer to him as Ingodwe, had just Bruce Lee’d the shit out of Ahab, and I was really living in the moment.
With the boss out of his conscious mind for a moment, I took matters into my own hands and cut a plywood circle around Phil’s boot. I deliberately stayed out of kicking range. And when I was done Phil had what looked like a giant, plywood snowshoe on his left foot. A couple of us grabbed Phil and carried him to my truck. I know for a fact that one of the guys helping me carry Phil deliberately jostled Phil every chance he could. He told me. This unnamed saint said he did it because he wanted to hear Phil use the Lord’s name in vain.
Because Phil decided to injure his left foot, and that we had to cut out a plywood snowshoe for the man, it made it rather difficult to put him in the passenger seat of my new, small, standard shift pick-up truck. Instead we had to lay him on his back with his feet sticking out the window. The worst, the absolute worst part of this adventure was that Phil, while mumbling prayers I think, had his head in my lap the whole way to the ER. This made me uncomfortable. His head was pinned between my belly button and the steering wheel, and his head was on my lap. My lap! He couldn’t tuck?
When we got to the emergency room an orderly helped me get Phil into a wheel chair. And even standing I could feel the weight of his head in my lap, yuck. As I approached the nurse’s station, a sweet looking nurse started asking me questions since Phil was incapable of making human sounds.
“What happened?”
“He nailed his foot to the floor.”
I could see her wince, and then inspect the plywood. “Why didn’t he stop?” She asked.
I’ve got to say I had no idea what she was talking about. “Stop what?” I asked.
“Stop hammering.”
I was sorry that I explained to her how it happened. She seemed embarrassed by what she had just said. I wanted to talk to her because she was cute, and waiting room television wasn’t working. I stayed in the hospital for three hours because I didn’t know Phil’s phone number and couldn’t call his wife. Hell, if you asked me that day what Phil’s last name was, I would have said Trust. To me his first name was Ingodwe. And I had to refrain from calling him that at the hospital. So, calling information was useless. When they released Phil, they wheeled him out to my truck and he hopped in. Boy, did he look white. Once in the truck, I told him he had to sit up straight, all the way home.
Buying Paint: Color Is The Least Of Your Worries
Posted on | November 12, 2008 | No Comments
Most people when they are looking at a can of say, off-white interior latex paint, would rather pay $10.99 than $34.99. Chances are that the more expensive paint is a better product, but how can you tell?
A better quality paint will have a higher percentage of volume solids. Volume solids are the pigment and the binder suspended in the solvent. The solvent in latex paints is water. The deeper the color, or tint base if you’re buying a custom color, the fewer volume solids your paint will have. The percentage of volume solids ranges from 33% to 45% in premium paints.
Now, let me speak to you in paint-speak (wouldn’t Orwell be proud). Pigment provides more than just color. The principle properties of hardness, durability, and corrosion resistance are directly related to pigment. The best pigment for paint is titanium dioxide, and it’s expensive. So, many manufacturer’s will use “extenders” in their product to keep their costs down. Some of the extenders used are clay, chalk (calcium carbonate), and silica. Because these extenders are relatively soft they directly compromise a paint’s durability.
What about one-coat coverage? Unless you are going over nearly the exact color, your walls are exceptionally clean, and there are no adhesion problems like grease or crayon stains then one-coat coverage is possible. But you must purchase a paint with a high percentage of volume solids, or you won’t get the coverage in one shot. It’s been my experience that one-coat coverage is an urban legend.
The next part of “volume solids” is the binder. The binder cements the pigment particles into a smooth, uniform film of paint. The type and amount of binder affects gloss, stain resistance, adhesion, and color retention. Interior latex paints use several polymer types as binder, but the best is 100% acrylic. Some other types are styrene acrylic, or PVA (polyvinyl acetate).
For more paint information than you thought possible please visit the Paint Quality Institute. And if you’re thinking about skipping the primer coat, you should read this by yours truly.
DIY Fixes : Repairing Wood Rot
Posted on | November 12, 2008 | No Comments
Wood decays, that’s a fact. And to repair it, you’ve got to think like a dentist. First, you’ve got to remove the rot until you get to some reasonably solid wood. Depending on the location of the damage a scraper works great, but there comes a time when you’ve got to do some drilling or chiseling. Once you’ve got the crumbling rot removed, it’s a simple fix.
If the wood isn’t too far gone there is a solution (literally) it’s called Wood Hardener. It’s a funny name. Wood hardener is an acetone based product that enters the damaged wood and leaves behind a strong resin that literally re-glues the wood fibers back in place. It takes a few coats to get the job done, but it’s a faster and easier approach than to replace an entire piece of damaged wood.
Be warned this stuff will destroy your paint brush. I’ve used those throw away foam brushes for such repairs with some good results. The repaired wood will take on a shiny appearance after a couple of coats, and that’s when you know the wood hardener has penetrated completely. Now you’ve got this gaping hole to contend with. What I’ve found works best to fill these “cavities” is Bondo. Yes, good old-fashioned Bondo. Its been used in auto body shops for generations, and is now being used on homes. Be sure follow the manufacturer’s directions for use. What I like about Bondo is that it’s pretty inexpensive, it sticks to just about anything, and you can shape it and sand it to conform to make your repair nearly seamless. I wouldn’t use Bondo for a structural repair like the base of a column. For that, I’d use WoodEpox
Once the Bondo has cured and is sanded smooth be sure to prime and paint the repair within a couple of days. Be sure to wear proper safety glasses and appropriate dust mask or respirator.
Products mentioned in this post are available from Amazon.com or your local retailer.
Thank You.
Posted on | November 11, 2008 | No Comments
Veteran’s Day is to commemorate the sacrifices of our service people and also as a day to be dedicated to the cause of world peace. To every veteran, I say Thank You.
A Dedicated Nail Gun For Delicate Trim
Posted on | November 6, 2008 | 1 Comment
About seven years ago I interviewed Gary Striegler, easily one of the country’s finest trim carpenters for Fine Homebuilding Magazine. During the photo shoot Gary pulled out this 23 Gauge Pin Nailer and asked me if I had ever seen a gun like it. I hadn’t. And being a tool junkie, I had to see it in action.
The primary function of this particular nail gun is to attach delicate trim details without splitting the wood. The nail is a thin strip of wire as short as 3/8-inch to 1 1/8-inch in length. Because the fastener has no head, I make sure I use a good strong carpenter’s glue, too.
Since I use the pins to hold things tight while my glue dries the gun is more like a movable clamping device. The fastener, or pin in this case, is so small that it barely needs to be filled with wood putty later. I’ve used this particular gun with an assortment of hard and soft woods with great results. My only warning is that I wouldn’t use these proprietary nails on cedar since they will react with the tannins and blacken the wood. Make certain to use hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel fasteners when working with cedar.
There are three draw backs to this type of nail gun. The first is that the thin pins can follow the wood’s grain and exit through the face of the board. This isn’t a big deal, you just pull the pin out using needle nose pliers. My gun doesn’t have a cushioned nose and can leave a mark in soft wood like pine. And finally, there isn’t a “hose-free” version of this gun that I’m aware of, so it means having a compressor and hoses.
This is a versatile tool and after buying one, I wondered how the hell I got along with out it. My gun is still going strong after all this time. I originally paid $260.00 for this hand made beauty you see here, and that was seven years ago. But, many manufacturers have jumped into the fray since then and are produce more affordable models.
Why Aren’t You Using An Impact Driver?
Posted on | November 4, 2008 | No Comments
The first time I used an impact driver I smiled one of those Chesire cat, shit-eating grins and I wondered why the hell I didn’t buy one of these baby’s sooner. These tools can punch-out 1300 inch-pounds of torque without delivering that torque to the handle of the tool like a cordless drill will. That alone saves your wrist from some serious next day aching. Hey, lets face it, impact drivers are designed to drive screws, drills aren’t.
Impact drivers combine rotation with concussive blows to drive a screw, and you’ll sink them faster and easier than you ever imagined. And you can say good bye to stripping a screw head, too. The newer lithium ion powered tools are much lighter, charge faster, hold their charge longer, and even come equipped with a light. At first, I thought the light was hokey. But when I needed it, it became a real blessing. If you’ve ever hunted for a screw head in the dark, you know exactly what I’m talking about.
An impact driver on its own costs about $250.00. A substantial amount of the cost is for batteries. That’s why it’s a much better bargain to purchase a four or six piece kit and finally free yourself from the extension cord.
Like I said, I already own a damn fine impact driver. But if my wife wants to really surprise me this holiday season, I have to admit I’d be really happy to find a bow wrapped around a Makita LXT601 18V Lithium 6 Piece Cordless Tool Combination Kit
Quick Tips For Buying Router Bits
Posted on | November 3, 2008 | No Comments
Not a day goes by when I’m not using one of my routers. As I said in an earlier post, I own several routers and have specific bits dedicated to each tool. Some people shop for a router bit by its profile or the edge it leaves in wood, but that’s the least of my concerns. The first thing I look for is shank size. And yes, size does matter!
Router bits come in 1/4-inch or 1/2-shank inch sizes, and given the choices I’ll choose the 1/2-inch shank every time. A 1/2-inch shank has four times the strength of its counterpart and this significantly reduces operating vibration which in turn delivers a smoother cut. The cutting edge should be made from an industrial strength micro-carbide. This is a uniformly grained, compactly bonded compound made of compressed carbide powder, cobalt, and tungsten. This micro-carbide will hold an edge longer and can withstand several re-sharpenings. It’s impossible to tell from looking at the bit if it is of industrial strength, so I stick to bits made by Whiteside, CMT, Amana, Eagle America, Oldham Viper, Freud, to name but a few well respected manufacturers.
The next thing I look at is how smooth the bit is. I make certain the shoulder of the bit (this is the part of the bit that is fused to the carbide) and the gullet (the opening for sawdust to be removed) are unmarred. After these points of inspection it’s a cinch to pick a bit.
Ball bearings guides are pretty much standard on all decent router bits.
My last bit of advice is not to buy kits. Buy individual bits as you need them and build your own library. The only time I would recommend a kit is if you’re making cabinet doors (or for some other integrated function), then by all means get the complete kit.
The Router: One Of Woodworking’s Most Versatile Tools
Posted on | October 30, 2008 | 1 Comment
I can’t remember a day that I haven’t reached for one of my routers. I know, I said routers. I own several, and of varying horsepower. My wife doesn’t get it, but she owns 10 pair of black shoes.
Hand-held routers are one of the most popular woodworking tools around. I’ve used them for making dovetails, dadoes, lap-joints, rounding off sharp edges to milling decorative stock, you name it. While they are considered a portable tool, you can also mount them in a table and really have some fun. I won a Bench Dog 40-099 ProTop Phenolic Complete Router Table Top
Along with the versatility of this tool comes a confusing array of choices available to you.
System One Truck Racks: Some Serious Ladder Envy.
Posted on | October 29, 2008 | 2 Comments
Photo courtesy of System One
The first remodeling contractor I ever worked for had a brand spanking new F-150 with homemade ladder racks. The racks were nicely built and solid, a real testament to the man’s abilities. The 2X6 pressure treated cross beams were ship-lapped and through bolted. He built a functional product back before truck racks were a commercially viable option for most of us.
On one very cold winter day he sent me to the lumber yard to pick up a load of wood for a job. It was raining the day before, and snowing on this day. The ropes we used to secure the load were frozen stiff and the wood I loaded was slick with ice. I did the best I could (I was 18 and suffered from cepahlic rectumitis; which translates into I had my head up my ass) to secure the wood. And as luck would have it, at some point in my journey to the job site, I had to slam on the brakes. Guess where all that wood ended up. On the hood of my boss’ new truck. No one got hurt but my underwear suffered greatly.
What got me thinking about this youthful misadventure was that this morning I was following a truck that had a fantastic rack system. System One is chock full of features for the serious trades person and certainly worth a look. When I caught up to the carpenter driving the truck, he couldn’t say enough good things about the product. He especially liked the work winches that kept his load in place, no more fooling with ropes or tie-downs. Yeah, I know, I was won over.
About my boss’ truck. I was lucky enough to have a friend who worked in a body shop. That weekend, after hours, we snuck the truck into the shop, and fixed her up good as new. I kept my job, but owed my friend. And later that spring we put a new deck on his parents house.
How Low-E Windows Work
Posted on | October 28, 2008 | No Comments
Low-e coatings are the single most significant improvement in making windows more energy efficient. First introduced in the 1980s these microscopically thin, transparent coatings made from silver or tin oxide let the outside light shine in while keeping the interior conditioned air (heated or cooled) right where it is most needed. But not all low-e coatings are the same.
The first type of Low-e to hit the market was a hard coat Low-e, also known as pyrolytic coating. This type of coating is applied at high temperatures (thus the prefix pyro) and is sprayed onto the glass during what is called the float process. This thin layer of tin oxide and other additives are incorporated into the glass at the glass’ molten stage. As the glass cools, the tin oxide fuses onto the body of the glass creating an extremely durable coat. What’s nice about this glass is that this type of low-e is as durable as normal glass in terms of cutting and processing, and can be heat strengthened or laminated like normal float glass. This type of coating is better from a manufacturer’s standpoint because it’s easier to handle. This type of low-e glass does a good job of reducing heat loss by reflecting the heat back into the room, and is ideal when there is little concern for air conditioning.
Soft coat Low-e is also called a sputter coat. It is applied in multiple layers of transparent silver sandwiched between layers of metal oxide in a vacuum deposition process. The coating is delicate and is always on the inside surface of a sealed insulated glass window unit. This type of coating reduces solar heat gain by blocking long wave solar raditation and blocks a considerable amount of ultraviolet light that can fade fabrics, carpets, and wood finishes. During the cold months soft coats will also trap the warm inside air rather than letting it escape via heat transfer through panes of glass. All things considered, the sputter coat is a better performer.
With the soft coat low-e coating where the coating is placed also plays a role in the window’s effectiveness. When the coating is placed on the inside surface of the interior pane in heating climates this maximizes passive solar gain, reflecting the heat energy back into the home. In cooling climates the low-e coating is placed on the inside surface of the exterior pane to reduce solar heat gain by reflecting the heat toward the outside of the house.
The best way to choose a low-e window is to pay close attention to the National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC) sticker. The NFRC is basically the Underwriter’s Laboratory for windows. The two most significant ratings are the U-factor, which is really the inverse of typical insulation’s R-factor, measures the amount of suppressed radiative heat flow. The lower the U-factor the more efficient the window. A typical median rating is 0.27. The other rating is the Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) which measures the amount of heat that will pass through the window from the sun. The lower the SHGC number means that there’s less of the sun’s heat making its way into your house. This translates into less money spent on air conditioning, which helps you keep your cool, especially when the electric bill comes due. In cooling dominated climates, when you run the a/c more than the furnace, you’ll look to the NFRC sticker for a Solar Heat Gain Coefficient of 0.58 or less. But if your want some solar heat, in other words you run the furnace often and you’re a/c is really a window screen, look for a SHGC of .71 or more which means you’re letting in 71 percent of the sun’s transmitted heat which will take some of the burden off an over worked furnace.
Nearly every window and door manufacturer offers these types of coatings for their products.
About
I’m a sawdust making, tool buying, work boot wearing kind of guy. When I’m not building something useful, usually for someone else, I’m writing about it for Fine Homebuilding or This Old House. I’ve spent most of my adult life honing my craft and now I want to share what I’ve learned. From tool reviews to how-to this blog will explore a bunch of interesting stuff. So strap on a tool belt or crack a cold one and let’s have some fun.
